COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OIL, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPOUND

专利摘要:
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0; (c) at least one C-glycoside compound; and (d) water. The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a nano- or microemulsion with a transparent or slightly translucent appearance.
公开号:FR3015246A1
申请号:FR1363528
申请日:2013-12-24
公开日:2015-06-26
发明作者:Celine Derrips；Chantal Jouy；Anne Laure Bernard
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or a micro-emulsion. Emulsions of oil in water (O / W) or water in oil (W / O) are known in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, in particular for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as as milks, creams, toners, serums or toilet waters. In particular, a fine emulsion such as a nano- or microemulsion O / W is particularly interesting in cosmetics because of its transparent or slightly translucent appearance.
[0002] It is known in the art, in the cosmetic or dermatological field, to use oil emulsions in water (O / W). These emulsions, which consist of an oily phase (or a lipophilic phase) dispersed in an aqueous phase, have an external aqueous phase and are therefore products that are more pleasant to use because of the sensation of freshness they provide. . However, they have the disadvantage of lack of stability when the amount of oil present is too high. Today, for certain applications, it is advantageous to have a large amount of oils since the oils provide comfort for the skin, nourish it, and can also remove makeup from it when these oils have cleansing properties. In addition, it is advantageous to have fine emulsions, that is to say, emulsions in which the oily phase is in the form of very small droplets, that is to say of droplets of less than 4 pm of size, since these fine emulsions provide a pleasant cosmetic sensation and are generally more stable than coarse emulsions. These emulsions can be prepared, in particular, by the phase inversion temperature technique (PIT emulsions), in which the mean size of the globules constituting the oily phase is within given limits, namely between 0.1 and 4 μm. (100 to 4000 nm). The principle of emulsification by phase inversion temperature (or PIT) is, in theoretical terms, known to those skilled in the art; it was described in 1968 by K. Shinoda (J. Chem Soc Jpn., 1968, 89, 435). It has been demonstrated that this emulsification technique makes it possible to obtain stable fine emulsions (K. Shinoda and H. Saito, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 1969, 30, 258). This technology has been applied in cosmetics since 1972 by Mitsui et al. ("Application of the phase-inversion-temperature method to the emulsification of cosmetics", T. Mitsui, Y. Machida and F. Harusawa, American, Cosmet Perfum., 1972, 87, 33).
[0003] The principle of this technique is as follows: an O / W emulsion (introduction of the aqueous phase into the oily phase) is prepared at a temperature which should be greater than the phase inversion temperature of the system, that is, that is, the temperature at which the balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilic properties of the emulsifier (s) used is obtained; at a higher temperature, that is to say above the phase inversion temperature (> PIT), the emulsion is of the water-in-oil type and, when it cools, this emulsion is reversed at the phase inversion temperature so as to become an oil-in-water emulsion, having previously passed through a microemulsion state. This process makes it easy to obtain emulsions with a diameter generally less than 4 μm. The conventionally used oil-in-water emulsifying surfactants have an HLB (HLB = hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) in the range of 8 to 18. These emulsifiers, because of their amphiphilic structure, are located at the oily phase / aqueous phase, and thus stabilize the dispersed oil droplets.
[0004] However, it is difficult to produce fine O / W emulsions containing a large amount of oily phase, since such emulsions have a tendency to destabilize, this destabilization leading to coalescence and separation of the aqueous and oily phases with release. oil. In order to improve the stability of these emulsions, the concentration of emulsifiers can be increased; however, a high concentration of emulsifiers can lead to a rough, tacky or tacky feel, and to skin, eye and scalp safety issues. In particular, a fine emulsion such as a nano- or microemulsion O / W is particularly interesting in cosmetics because of its transparent or slightly translucent appearance. For example, JP-A-H09-110635 discloses a fine emulsion which is formed by using a combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester as a surfactant and a C10-C22 2-hydroxy fatty acid. In addition, JP-A-H11-71256 discloses a fine emulsion which is formed using a combination of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and betaine. However, when certain types of nonionic surfactants are used to prepare fine emulsions, the transparent or slightly translucent appearance of the emulsion as well as the stability of the emulsion are not sufficient. An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion having a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably transparent.
[0005] After extensive research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to produce a stable cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion having an aspect of the transparent or slightly translucent emulsion, preferably transparent, even when the use of a nonionic surfactant which made it difficult to form a fine emulsion such as a nano- or microemulsion. Accordingly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an H LB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0; (c) at least one C-glycoside compound preferably represented by the formula (I) (d) of water. Since the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, the composition can be used preferably for lotions and the like. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can produce a pleasant texture and provides moisturizing properties as well as increased flexibility. In addition, if the dispersed phase is an oily phase and comprises one or more lipophilic or even amphiphilic active components, the oily dispersed phase can function as a carrier of the active substance and accelerate the penetration of the active components into the skin, or can distribute the active components on the skin.
[0006] In addition, the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating the skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyelids and / or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The invention is applied to the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyelids or scalp. In addition, the present invention further relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as or in skincare products and / or detergents and / or make-up products and / or makeup removers for the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyelids. Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is described in more detail.
[0007] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. According to the present invention, an "oil" refers to a compound or fatty substance (se) which is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile. The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof. It is preferred that the oil (a) be selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0008] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, castor oil, oil, and the like. olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, argan oil, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, it may be mentioned, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0009] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkanes such as isododecane and isohexadecane, fatty esters, fatty ethers, and artificial C 6 -C 22 acid triglycerides. The fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the fatty esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched. Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate. Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or non-carbohydric C4-C26 pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. to be used. It can be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; isopropyllauryl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; trilactate 4 of glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate. As fatty esters, it is possible to use fatty acid esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to hydrocarbon-based compounds containing oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0010] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose. The fatty acid esters of sugar may be chosen, in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and linear or branched C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated double bonds. Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, mixed oleopalmitate esters. , oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate. More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates. One example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. As preferred examples of fatty esters, there can be mentioned, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate 40, cetyl, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, palmitate of methyl, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, myristate isopropyl, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythritol tetra (2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof. As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri ( glyceryl caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri (caprate / caprylate / linolenate). As examples of silicone oils, there may be mentioned, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0011] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked via a hydrocarbon-based group. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile. Volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes may be used. The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched C6-C16 lower alkanes, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid paraffin gel, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.
[0012] As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (eg liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalenes , and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and a decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0013] It is also preferable that the oil (a) is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol. Preferably, the oil (a) is chosen from fatty esters having a C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon chain or chains (for example, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and ethylhexyl palmitate). ), hydrocarbon oils (eg, isododecane, isohexadecane, and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated C 12 -C 30 fatty alcohol oils such as octyldodecanol, oleic alcohol, fatty ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
[0014] The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the oil (a) may be in the range of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 40% by weight, and more preferably 5 to 30%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Nonionic surfactant] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one specific nonionic surfactant.
[0015] The nonionic surfactant has an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the average weight of the HLB values of all the nonionic surfactants.
[0016] The term HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) is well known to those skilled in the art, and refers to the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant. The HLB or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention is the HLB according to GRIFFIN defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the book by the authors F. PUISIEUX and M. SEILLER, entitled "GALENICA 5: The dispersed systems - Volume I - Agents surface and emulsions - Chapter IV Notions of HLB and critical HLB, pages 153-194 - section 1.1.2 Experimental determination of HLB, pages 164-180.
[0017] Preferably, it is the value of the calculated HLBs that must be taken into account. The calculated HLB is defined as the following coefficient: calculated HLB = 20 x molar mass hydrophilic part / total molar mass. For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic portion corresponds to the oxyethylene units condensed on the fatty alcohol and the calculated HLB then corresponds to the HLB according to Griffin (Griffin, W.C., J.Soc.Cosmet, Chemists, 5, 249, 1954). The nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0 may be selected from: (1) surfactants which are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, selected from esters of at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of a polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 units of ethylene oxide, the sorbitan, the glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, and from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C22 alkyl chain ( 2) mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol, (3) fatty acid esters of carbohydrates and sugar alcohol fatty alcohol ethers, (4) surfactants which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, selected from glycerol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid and oxyethylenesoxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated fatty acid ethers and ethoxylated fatty acid esters, (5) block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and oxide propylene (B), and (6) silicone surfactants, the surfactants (1) which are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C can be, in particular: - polyethylene glycol isostearate of molecular weight 400, marketed under the name PEG 400 by the company Unichema; - The diglyceryl isostearate, marketed by the company Solvay; - Glyceryl laurate comprising 2 glycerol units, marketed by the company Solvay; sorbitan oletate, sold under the name Span 80 by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate, sold under the name Nikkol SI 1OR by the company Nikko; and α-butylglucoside cocoate or α-butylglucoside caprate, sold by the company Ulice. Mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol (2), of carboxylic acid and of glycerol, which may be used as nonionic surfactant above, may be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol with an alkyl chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and 8-hydroxy-acid and / or succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid may be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0018] The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters are derived which may be used in the emulsion of the invention may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. It may be, in particular, stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains and mixtures thereof. -this. As examples of mixed esters which can be used in the emulsion of the invention, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerol and of the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: citrate / lactate / linoleate / glyceryl oleate) marketed by Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and of isostearyl alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: isostearyl-diglyceryl succinate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: stearate-glyceryl citrate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate-lactate) sold by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30. The sugar fatty acid esters of sugars (3), which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may preferably be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C and may be selected in particular from the group consisting of comprising esters or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of C14-C22 fatty acid esters and methylglucose .
[0019] The C8-C22 or c14-C22 fatty acids forming the fatty acid unit of the esters which can be used in the present invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. . The fatty acid unit of the esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used. As examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, there may be mentioned sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products marketed by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and methylglucose which may be mentioned are methylglucose-polyglyceryl-3 distearate, marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. It may also be mentioned glucose or maltose monoesters such as methyl-o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside. The sugar alcohol alcohol ethers (3), which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C and may be selected in particular from the group consisting of ethers or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or ether mixtures of a C14-C22 fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.
[0020] The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty acid unit of the ethers which may be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty acid unit of the ethers may be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. As examples of carbohydrate alcohol ethers, there may be mentioned alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which is marketed, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in the form of a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the Henkel company, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC. The surfactant used is more particularly sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, methylglucose-polyglyceryl-3 distearate and alkylpolyglucosides. The glycerol fatty acid esters (4) which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters. formed from at least one acid comprising a linear saturated alkyl chain containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and from 1 to 12 glycerol units. One or more of these glycerol fatty acid esters may be used in the present invention.
[0021] These esters may be chosen in particular from glycerol stearates, behenates, arachidates and palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Glycerol stearates and palmitates are preferably used. As examples of surfactants which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of decaglyceryl monostearate, distearate, tristearate and pentastearate (CTFA names: polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl tristearate) 10-polyglyceryl pentastearate), such as the products marketed under the respective names Nikkol Decaglyn 1S, 2S, 3S and 5S by the company Nikko, and the diglyceryl monostearate (CTFA name: polyglyceryl stearate). 2), such as the product marketed by Nikko under the name Nikkol DGMS. The sorbitan fatty acid esters (4) which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, which are solid at a temperature of 45 ° C or lower, can be selected from the group consisting of C16-C22 fatty acid of sorbitan and C16-C22 fatty acid esters of oxyethylenesoxyethylenated sorbitan. They are formed of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenesoxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units. These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used. As examples of the above nonionic surfactant which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), marketed by ICI under the name Tween 65. The ethoxylated fatty acid ethers (4) which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, which may be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are preferably ethers of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide and at least one fatty alcohol chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid ethers which may be mentioned are behenyl alcohol ethers comprising 5, 10, 20 and 30 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: beheneth-5, beheneth-10, beheneth- 20, beheneth-30), such as the products marketed under the names Nikkol BBS, BB10, BB20 and BB30 by the company Nikko, and the stearyl alcohol ether comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: steareth -2), such as the product sold under the name Brij 72 by the company ICI. The ethoxylated fatty acid esters (4) which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, are esters of 1 to 100 oxide units ethylene and at least one fatty acid chain containing from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the 11 esters may be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned are the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product marketed under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG stearate). 40) by the company ICI, as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product marketed under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse. The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and of propylene oxide (B) (5), which can be used as surfactants in the nanoemulsion according to the invention, can be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (IV): HO (C2H40) x (C31-160) y (C2H40), H (IV) wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z is in the range of 2 to 100 and y is in the range of 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly among block copolymers of formula (IV) having an HLB value in the range of 8.0 to 14.0.
[0022] As the silicone surfactants (6) which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of those described in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744. The silicone surfactant (6) as the above nonionic surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I): ## STR2 ## wherein: R1, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 aryl radical or a radical - (CH2) x- (OC1-12C1-12) y- (OC1-12CH2CH2), - OR4, at least one radical; Rt R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer in the range of 0 to 200; B is an integer in the range of 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero; x is an integer in the range of 1 to 6; y is an integer in the range of 1 to 30; z is an integer in the range of 0 to 5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer in the range of 2 to And y is an integer in the range of 4 to 30. As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), there may be mentioned the compounds of formula (II) (CH5) 3SIO - [(CH3) 2SiO ], - (CH3SiO) 8 - Si (CH3) 3 (CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH wherein A is an integer in the range of 20 to 105, B is an integer in the range of 2 to 10 and y is an integer in the range of 10 to 20. As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), there may also be mentioned the compounds of formula (III): H- (OCH2CH2) y- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A '- (CH2) 3- (OCH2CH2) y-OH (III) wherein A' and y are integers in the range of 10 to 20.
[0023] The compounds of the invention which can be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) wherein A is and y is 13. It is preferred that the nonionic surfactant (b) with an HLB value from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0, is selected from: - polyethylene glycol isostearate or oleate (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide), isocetyl polyethylene glycol, behenyl ether or isostearyl ether (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide), - polyglyceryl monolaurate or dilaurate comprising 3 to 6 units glycerol, - polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, - polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and - polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units. According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0 is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters and mono- or polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters. It is preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprises esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerin containing 70% or more of polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid. and polyglycerin containing 60% or more of polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of from 4 to 11, and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerin containing 30% or more of polyglycerin whose degree of polymerization is 5.
[0024] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated mono-, di- and tri-esters of saturated acid, preferably a saturated acid, comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms. and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid. It is preferred that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from the group consisting of PG-4 laurate, PG-5 laurate, PG-5 dilaurate, PG-5 oleate, PG-5 dioleate, PG-6 tricaprylate, PG-5 myristate, PG-5 trimyristate, PG-5 stearate, PG-5 isostearate, PG-5 trioleate, PG-6 caprylate, and PG-6 tricaprylate. It is preferred that the mono- or poly-oxyethylenated fatty acid ester has a (poly) oxyalkylene moiety derived from 1 to 20 oxyalkylenes, preferably from 3 to 15 oxyalkylenes, and more preferably from 8 to 10 oxyalkylenes. The oxyalkylene moiety may be derived from alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and the like. The oxyalkylene moiety may contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide of from 1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units. The mono- or polyoxyethylenated fatty acid ester may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated mono and di-esters, preferably a saturated acid, comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and the like. myristic acid.
[0025] Examples of mono- or poly-oxyethylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 30, preferably C 6 -C 30 and more preferably C 8 -C 22 polyethylene glycols.
[0026] Examples of mono- or polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include ethylene oxide adducts with lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid esters , isostearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, particularly those containing from 8 to 30 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-8 to PEG-30 laurate (at 14 30152 4 6 the CTFA names: PEG-8 laurate to PEG-30 laurate); myristate from PEG-8 to PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 myristate to PEG-30 myristate); palmitate from PEG-8 to PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 palmitate to PEG-30 palmitate); PEG-30 stearate from PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 stearate PEG-30 stearate); PEG-8 isostearate to PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 isostearate to PEG-30 isostearate); PEG-8 oleate to PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 oleate to PEG-30 oleate); PEG-8 behenate to PEG-30 (under the CTFA names: PEG-8 behenate to PEG-30 behenate); and mixtures thereof. It is preferred that the polyglycol fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of PEG-8 isostearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG10 isostearate, PEG10 oleate, and the like. PEG10 isocetyl ether, PEG10 behenyl ether or PEG10 isostearyl ether and a mixture thereof. The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the nonionic surfactant (b) with an HLB value of from 8.0 to 14.0, preferably from 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably from 10.0 to 13.0 is not limited, and may be in the range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, and more preferably 3 to 20% by weight, based on total weight of the composition. [Compound of C-glycoside] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside compound. The C-glycosides are preferably of the following general formula (I): XR S- / (I) in which: R represents an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 10, in particular C 1 to C 4, and which may be optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH, Y or COOR "2, with R" 2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide which may be substituted by a necessarily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function (s), and - X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH (OR ') -, -CH (NH2) -, CHNRbRc; CHNHORd, -C (NH2) -, CNRbRc; CNHORd 15 -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) - and -CH (CH 3) - and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH (OH) - or -CH (NH 2) - and more particularly a radical - CH (OH) -, R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear and saturated alkyl radical C1-C18, * a linear and unsaturated alkyl radical C2-C18 * a branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, in C3-C18 * a saturated or unsaturated C5 or C6 cyclic radical; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 18 or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 5 or C 6 acyl radical. Ra denotes: a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a linear or branched C2-C18 acyl or linear or branched C2-C18 alkenylcarbonyl radical; C18 Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C2-C18 or branched C3-C18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C3-C4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical or a radical -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 in wherein Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT, -SH, -ST, -OO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, H COT COT and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N group - (COT) -, or -S- with T denoting a linear or branched C1-C6 or C3-C6 cyclic alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, or an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; linear or branched C3-C4, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom 16 - a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 18 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, said radical being optionally substituted with a phenyl group, the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which may be a or 13, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometrical isomers.
[0027] C-glycosides of formula (I) useful for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2 and more preferably, a methyl radical. Among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned especially methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl groups. cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl. According to one embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a C-glycoside compound corresponding to formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form. and L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function necessarily free and / or optionally one or more amine functions compulsorily protected, X and R otherwise retaining all of the previously given definitions. Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention may be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L- rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-glucuron xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.
[0028] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose and D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least minus one xylose which may be advantageously chosen from among xylobiose, methyl-13-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and especially D-xylose. Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
[0029] When the compound of formula (I) has an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2; or with an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may especially be made of 2-amino-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol and 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed in the last step of preparing said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
[0030] According to a first embodiment, preferably a C-glycoside derivative of formula (I) is used in which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4, especially C 1 -C 2, alkyl radical, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) - group. By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of the following compounds: C-13-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, Ca- D-xylopyranoside n-propan-2-one, C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, Ca- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one, 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- (3-L-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaL-fucopyranoside) 2-propan-2-one, 1- (C- (3-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (CaD-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (C-) L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane, 1- (CaL-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C-13-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, CaD-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxyl-propane, 1- (C-13-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane, 1- (CaD-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxylpropane 1- (C- 13-D-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaD-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one 1- (C-13-L-fucofuran) syl) -propan-2-one, 1- (CaL-fucofuranosyl) -propan-2-one, C-13-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propane- 2-one C-13-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.
[0031] According to one embodiment, C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and preferably C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, may advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention. According to one particular embodiment, the C-glycoside compound may be C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (or HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDRO PYRANTRIOL) in the form of a 30% solution by weight of material. active in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight). A C-glycoside derivative which is suitable for the invention may in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in WO 02/051828. According to a second embodiment, the C-glycosides are preferably chosen from C-glycosides of general formula (I) in which S is xylose and R represents an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated C 2 and substituted with a radical Y which denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) and represented by the following formula (II): R'0 in which - the compounds of formula (I) are derivatives of xylose-Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) - W = -OR '; (= 0); NRbRc; NHORd - R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear and saturated C1-C18 alkyl radical, * a C2-C18 linear and unsaturated alkyl radical, a branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C18 alkyl radical * a saturated or unsaturated C 5 or C 6 cyclic radical; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 2 -C 18 or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 5 or C 6 acyl radical.
[0032] Ra denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical - a linear or branched C 2 -C 18 or linear or branched alkenylcarbonyl acyl radical When Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle substituted with 2 to 5 groups (ORa), two adjacent ORa groups may together form a divalent radical -O-CH 2 -O with the proviso that when X = OH, the compound does not have an ethylenic double bond in the alpha position of the carbon carrying this OH. Rb is: - a hydrogen atom - a C2-C18 linear or branched C3-C18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C3-C4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical or a radical -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 in wherein Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT, -SH, -ST, -CO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, H COT COT and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N group - (COT) -, or -S- with T denoting a linear or branched C1-C6 or C3-C6 cyclic alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, or an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; linear or branched C3-C4, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 18 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, said radical being optionally substituted with a phenyl group, and that their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their stereoisomers, For the purposes of the present invention, heterocycle denotes a cyclic hydrocarbon radical 5 to 10 members, saturated or unsaturated, including aromatic, comprising at least one heteroatom selected from 0 , S or N. Preferably, heterocycle denotes a pyridine, pyrimidine, indole and more preferably pyridine or indole radical. The preferred compounds of formula (II) are those for which: the compounds of formula (II) are derivatives of xylose 21 -Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) - X = -GOLD' ; (= 0); NRbR,; NHORd - R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 12 or cyclic saturated C 5 or C 6 alkyl radical; a linear or branched acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated in C 1 -C 6 C6, or cyclic saturated C5 or C6.
[0033] Ra denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical - a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 acyl radical When Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle substituted with 2 to 5 groups (ORa ), two adjacent ORa groups may together form a divalent radical -O-CH2-O with the proviso that when X = OH, the compound does not contain an ethylenic double bond at the alpha position of the carbon bearing this OH.
[0034] Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C2-C12 or branched C3-C12 alkyl radical, or a -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 radical in which Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl radical; or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT , -SH, -ST, -CO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, H COT TOC and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N- (COT) - group, or -S- with T denoting a C1-C6 linear, C5-C6 linear alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, or an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; linear or branched C3-C4, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group. Rd represents: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 12 or branched C 3 -C 12 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their stereoisomers, For the purposes of the present invention, heterocycle denotes a cyclic hydrocarbon radical 5 to 10 members, saturated or unsaturated, including aromatic, comprising at least one heteroatom selected from O, S or N. Preferably, heterocycle denotes a radical pyridine, pyrimidine, indole and more preferably pyridine or indole.
[0035] The compounds of formula (I) that are particularly preferred are those for which: the compounds of formula (I) are derivatives of xylose-Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 groups (ORa) - X = -GOLD' ; (= 0); NRbRc; NHORd - R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, * a linear or branched C1-C6 acyl radical.
[0036] Ra denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical - a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 acyl radical When Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle substituted with 2 or 3 groups (ORa ), two adjacent ORa groups may together form a divalent radical -O-CH2-O with the proviso that when X = OH, the compound does not contain an ethylenic double bond at the alpha position of the carbon bearing this OH.
[0037] Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C2-C8 or branched C3-C8 alkyl radical, or a -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 radical in which Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl radical or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT , -SH, -ST, -CO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, 23 H COT TOC and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N- (COT) - group, or -S- with T denoting a C 5 -C 6 cyclic C 1 -C 6 linear alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4, or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a group; phenyl. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 4 or branched C 3 -C 4 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and For the purposes of the present invention, heterocycle refers to a saturated or unsaturated, including aromatic, cyclic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least one heteroatom chosen from O, S or N. Preferably, heterocycle denotes a pyridine radical. , pyrimidine, indole and more preferably pyridine or indole.
[0038] The compounds of formula (II) that are more particularly preferred are the following: Compound 1: (3R, 4S, 5R) -2- [2-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H- pyran-3,4,5-triol OH O OH Compound 2. 4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran 2-yl] but an-2-one Compound 3. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2- [2-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-phenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran 3,4,5-triol HO 'OH Compound 4. 4- (4-hydroxy-phenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl] Butan-2-one 10 HO Compound 5. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2- [2- (Benzylamino) -4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,15,4 5-triol 6-triol compound 6-ethyl {[3- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -1 - {[(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran) 2-yl] methyllpropyl] aminol (phenyl) acetate OH OMe HO "Compound 7. (3E) -4-phenyl-1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran 2-yl] but-3-en-2-one HO "Compound 8. (3E) -4- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3.4 , 5-tr 2H-pyra-n-2-yl] but-3-en-2-one HO compound 9. (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran -3,4,5-Triol 26 HO Compound 10: (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl) butynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-tri Compound 11. (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) butynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol HOOH HO ' OH 12 (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-phenyl) butynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol Compound 13. 5,9-anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-1-pyridin-3-yl-D-xylo-nonitol 27H-Compound 14. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2 - [(2E) -2- (methoxyimino) -4-phenylbutyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol H, HO OHN OMe OH Compound 15 5,9-Anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-7-0- pentanoyl-1-phenyl-D-xylo-non-3-ulose O Compound 16.5,9-anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-1- (3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl) -D-xylo-nonitol The compound C-glycoside (c) of formula (II) is preferably selected from compounds (1) and (11). According to the invention, the compound C-glycoside (c) is preferably chosen from C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, -α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, the compounds (1 ) and (11) and more particularly from C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and compound 1.
[0039] The compounds of formula (I) and / or (II) can be synthesized according to the general procedure in application EP 2376510 or according to patent application FR 1262731. Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside derivative responding to formula (I) and / or (II) may be used alone or in admixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion. The amount in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention of the compound C-glycoside (c) may range from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Water] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises water. The amount of water is not limited, and may range from 50 to 99% by weight, preferably from 55 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the product. composition. [Additional surfactant] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one nonionic surfactant different from (b) above and / or at least one additional ionic surfactant. As additional surfactant, at least one nonionic surfactant other than b), in particular having an HLB value of less than 8.0 or greater than 14.0, can be used.
[0040] As additional nonionic surfactant, there may be mentioned compounds of the type listed in (b) above except that the additional nonionic surfactant has an HLB value of less than 8.0, preferably less than 9.0, and more preferably less than 10.0, and greater than 14.0, preferably greater than 13.5, and more preferably greater than 13.0.
[0041] As additional surfactant, at least one ionic surfactant can be used. The ionic surfactant may be chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants and more particularly is selected from anionic surfactants. According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant that can be used in the compositions of the invention is chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, for example from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83, quaternium 87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and stearamidopropyldimethylamine. Anionic Surfactant The anionic surfactants may comprise at least one group selected from carboxylic groups, sulphates, sulphonates and phosphates. It is possible to use alkylphosphates, alkylsulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl isethionates, alkyltaurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, alkylpolypeptides and anionic derivatives of alkylpolyglucosides. and their mixtures. Alkyl groups having 8 to 22 carbon atoms. 1) Mention may be made, as alkyl phosphates, of, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, marketed under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphate, the mixture of mono- and di-esters (mainly a diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octyl phosphate diester, marketed under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester (7 mol of EO), sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium salt or triethanolamine of mono-C 12 alkyl-phosphate; C13), marketed under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP 230T-60® by Uniqema, potassium laurylphosphate, marketed under the name Dermalcare MAP XC-99 / 09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetylphosphate, marketed under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by Uniqema. 2) There may be mentioned, as surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic group, the: - alkylamidoethercarboxylates (AEC), such as sodium layrylamidoethercarboxylate (3 EO), marketed under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals; alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated sodium lauryl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, oxyethylenesoxyethylenated polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids derived from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, marketed as Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and - salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C6-C22 alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. 3) Mention may in particular be made of amino acid derivatives, such as: (C 6 -C 18) sarcosinate alkyls, such as sodium lauroylsarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or marketed under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoylsarcosinate, marketed under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoylsarcosinate, marketed under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol; alkyl (C6-C18) alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or marketed under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine; N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, marketed as Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken; - C6-C18 alkyl glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroylglutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto; (C6-C18) aspartate alkyls, such as the mixture of triethanolamine-N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine-N-myristoyl aspartate, marketed under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi, -C6-C18 alkyls; glycinates, such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amitite GCS-12® and Am ilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto; - C6-C18 alkyl citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenesoxyethylenesoxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 moles), sold under the name VVitconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and - (C6-C18) alkyl galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside-uronate, sold by Soliance. 4) Mention may be made, as alkyl (C6-C18) methyltaurates, of the sodium salt of palm oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Paté® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or marketed under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoylmethyltaurate, marketed under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol. 5) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl-polyglucosides. It may be mentioned, for example, the sodium salt of (1,4) -tartric cocoyl-polyglucoside ester, marketed under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of ester (1,4) cocoyl-polyglucoside sulphosuccinic acid, marketed under the name Test 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of (1,4) cocoyl-polyglucoside citrate ester, marketed under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia. It is preferred that the amino acid derivatives are acylglycine derivatives, particularly an acylglycine salt. The acylglycine derivatives may be chosen from acylglycine salts (or acylglycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular the following. i) Acylglycinates of formula (I): R-HNCH2COOX (I) in which: - R represents an acyl group R'C = O, with R ', which represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and - X represents a cation chosen, for example, from alkali metal ions, such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal ions, such as Mg, ammonium groups and mixtures thereof. The acyl group may, in particular, be selected from lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and mixtures thereof. Preferably, R is a cocoyl group. ii) glycinates of the following formula (II): embedded image in which: R 1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and more preferably 16 to 20 carbon atoms; R1 is advantageously chosen from lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and mixtures thereof, and preferably stearyl and oleyl groups, the R2 groups, which are identical or different, represent an R "OH group, R "is an alkyl group having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms. It may be mentioned, as a compound of formula (I), for example, the compounds bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, marketed by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate, such as for example, Aminite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto. As the compounds of formula (II), it is possible to use dihydroxyethyloleate glycinate or dihydroxyethylstearyl glycinate. The amount of the additional surfactant (s) may be from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably 0.10% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Polyol] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. The term "polyol" means, according to the present invention, a compound having two or more hydroxyl groups. The polyol may be a C 2 -C 12 polyol, preferably a C 1-4 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups. The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure. The polyol may be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerine, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, polyethyleneglycol, especially having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol. The polyol may be present in an amount in the range of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, based on total weight of the composition. [Thickening agent] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one thickening agent. The thickening agent may be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners. The thickening agent is preferably selected from associative thickeners and polysaccharides such as starch and xanthan gum. In the present context, the term "associative thickener" refers to an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic and hydrophobic units, for example, comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit. The viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C with viscometers or rheometers preferably having a cone-plane geometry. Preferably, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be, for example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at 25 ° C and 1 s-1. The thickener may be present in an amount in the range of from 0.001% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, for example from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Other components] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may furthermore comprise an effective amount of other components previously known in particular in compositions that are especially cosmetic, such as various adjuvants, anti-aging agents, bleaching agents, anti-oily skin agents, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, anti-UV agents, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example, panthenol, opacifiers, perfumes, plant extracts, cationic polymers, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Therefore, the organic solvent is preferably miscible in water. As the organic solvent, there can be mentioned, for example, C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; similar products; and mixtures thereof. The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in a range of from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . [Preparation and Properties] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional components according to a conventional method. The conventional method comprises mixing with a high pressure homogenizer (a high energy process). Alternatively, the cosmetic composition may be prepared by a low energy method such as a phase inversion temperature (PIT) method, a phase inversion concentration (PIC), autoemulsification, and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is prepared by a low energy process. The ratio of nonionic surfactant (b) to oil (a) may be from 0.25 to 6, preferably from 0.3 to 3, and more preferably from 0.4 to 1.5. In particular, the ratio of nonionic surfactant (b) to oil (a) is preferably 1.5 or less, for example 0.25 to 1.5, preferably 0.3 to 1.5. and more preferably from 0 to 1.5. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion. The "microemulsion" can be defined in two ways, that is, in a broad sense and in a more restricted sense. Namely, in one case ("micro-emulsion in the narrow sense"), the microemulsion denotes a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase containing a ternary system having three components comprising an oily component, an aqueous component and a surfactant, and the other case ("micro-emulsion in the broad sense"), among the typical thermodynamically unstable emulsion systems, the microemulsion further comprises emulsions having transparent or translucent aspects due to their smaller particle sizes ( Satoshi Tomomasa, et al., Oil Chemistry, 37, 11 (1988), 48-53). "Microemulsion" in the present context refers to a "microemulsion in the restricted sense", i.e., a thermodynamically stable single isotropic liquid phase.
[0042] The microemulsion denotes a state of an O / W (oil in water) type microemulsion in which the oil is solubilized by micelles, a W / H type microemulsion (water in the water). oil) in which the water is solubilized by inverse micelles, or a bicontinuous microemulsion in which the number of associations of surfactant molecules is brought to be infinite so that the aqueous phase and the oily phase both have a continuous structure. The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 100 nm or less, preferably 50 nm or less, and more preferably 20 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size.
[0043] The "nanoemulsion" currently refers to an emulsion characterized by a dispersed phase having a size of less than 350 nm, the dispersed phase being stabilized by a ring of the nonionic surfactant (b) which can optionally form a lamellar-type liquid crystal phase , at the disperse phase / continuous phase interface. In the absence of specific opacifiers, the transparency of the nanoemulsions is due to the small size of the dispersed phase, this small size can be obtained through the use of mechanical energy and in particular a high pressure homogenizer. Nanoemulsions can be distinguished from microemulsions by their structure.
[0044] Specifically, the microemulsions are thermodynamically stable dispersions formed, for example, swollen micelles of nonionic surfactant (b) with the oil (a). In addition, the microemulsions do not require substantial mechanical energy to be prepared.
[0045] The microemulsion may have a dispersed phase having a number average diameter of 300 nm or less, preferably 200 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less, as measured by laser particle size. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a nano- or micro-emulsion O / W, a nano- or microemulsion W / O or a bicontinuous emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a nano- or microemulsion O / W. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O / W emulsion. The average size of the oily phase droplets is measured concentrated by dynamic light scattering (DDL) with a VASCO granulometer. These measurements are performed on the undiluted emulsion.
[0046] The number average size (pm) of the oily phase droplets of the composition of the invention is less than 300 nm and preferably 10 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably 20 nm to 100 nm. The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have a transparent or slightly translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance. Transparency can be measured by measuring the transmission factor with an absorption spectrometer in the visible region (for example, transparency is measured with a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25 ° C. The portable turbidimeter uses the nephelometric measurement principle of Turbidity The nephelometric turbidity measurement depends on the detection of the light dispersed by the particles in suspension in the liquid The unit of measurement is the NTU A round bowl 60 x 25 cm made of borosilicate glass with a stopper is used. The required amount of sample is 15 mL The measuring range is 0-1000 NTU The samples are measured undiluted The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can preferably have a turbidity of between 1 and 200 NTU and preferably between 5 and 100 NTU [Method and use] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used for a process non-therapeutic dice, such as a cosmetic process, for treating the skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyelids and / or the scalp, by application to the skin, the hair, the membranes mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyelids or scalp. The present invention further relates to a use of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as such or in care products and / or detergents and / or make-up products and / or makeup removers for the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyelids.
[0047] The care product may be a lotion, a cream, a hair tonic, a hair conditioner, a sunscreen, and the like. The cleaning product may be a shampoo, a facial cleanser, a hand cleaner, and the like. The makeup product may be a foundation, a mascara, a lipstick, a lip gloss, a blush, an eye shadow, a nail polish, and the like. The makeup remover may be a makeup cleaner and the like. EXAMPLES The present invention is described in more detail by way of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. (Particle size) The particle size is measured with a VASCO-2 (CORDOUAN TECHNOLOGIES) under undiluted conditions. (Transparency) Transparency is measured with a Hach 2100Q portable turbidimeter at 25 ° C. A round bowl 60 x 25 cm made of borosilicate glass with screw cap is used. The amount of sample needed is 15 mL. The measuring range is 0- 1000 NTU. Samples are measured undiluted. [Example 1 and Comparative Example 2] The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, described in Table 1, are prepared by mixing the components described in Table 1 as follows: (1) myristate mixture isopropyl and 5-polyglyceryl laurate to form an oily phase; (2) heating the oil phase to about 75 ° C; (3) mixture of water and (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol at 42, 5% of active ingredient in propanediol and water; and (4) adding the aqueous phase to the oily phase with stirring to obtain an O / W emulsion. The numerical values for the amounts of the components described in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight of active ingredients.
[0048] 37 1 Comparative 2 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 12 12 OCTYLDODECANOL 1 1 POLYGLYCERYL-2 CAPRATE (SUNSOFTQ-10D-C from -TAIYO KAGAKU) 4 4 POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE (SUNSOFTA-121E-C from TAIYO KAGAKU) 9 9 (3R, 4S, 5R ) -2- [2-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-12.3% MA-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol with 42.5% active ingredient in propanediol and water BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 PH ENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.5 WATER qs 100 100 The appearance, the size of the oil particles and the transparency of the O / W emulsions obtained according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are described in Table 2. [Example 3 and Comparative Example 4] Comparative 4 ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE 5 POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE (SUNSOFT A-121E-C from TAIYO KAGAKU) 5 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 20 SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE (NIKKO NIKKOL SMT) 0,1 0,1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,5 0,5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 0,5 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 1 YOMA WATER qs 100 100 'clearly indicate the results below, he has tee observed that the cosmetic compositions in the form of an O / W emulsion according to the present invention 1 and 3 exhibit better transparency and are stable. Table 2 Appearance Turbidity Diameter Average Mean Macroscopic Stability in (NTU) Number (nm) 1 Fluid 25 Stable 2 Invention transparent month 45 ° C 2 opaque fluid> 1000> 1000 2 comparative white: 2 phase phases 3 Fluid 77 Stable 2 invention transparent month 45 ° C 4 Opaque fluid> 1000> 1000 2 comparative white: 2 phases phases 5 39

权利要求:
Claims (16)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a nano- or microemulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and preferably 10.0 to 13.0; (c) at least one C-glycoside compound (d) of water.
[0002]
The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. .
[0003]
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil (a) is selected from hydrocarbon oils which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature.
[0004]
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil (a) is selected from oils having a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.
[0005]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the oil (a) is in the range of 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0006]
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) is selected from: surfactants which are fluid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, chosen from: at least one polyol selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol comprising from 1 to 60 units of ethylene oxide, the sorbitan, glycerol comprising from 2 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, polyglycerols comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units, and at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C22 alkyl chain, mixed esters of fatty acid or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and glycerol, - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohol fatty alcohol ethers, - surfactants which are solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45 ° C, selected from glycerol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated fatty acid ethers and ethoxylated fatty acid esters, block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B), and silicone surfactants.
[0007]
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant (b) is selected from: - isostearate or polyethylene glycol oleate (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide) polyethylene glycol isocetyl, behenyl ether or isostearyl ether (8 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide), polyglyceryl monolaurate or dilaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units. 15
[0008]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the nonionic surfactant (b) is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerin comprising 70 % or more polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 4 or more, preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerin containing 60% or more of polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of from 4 to 11 and more preferably esters of a fatty acid and polyglycerin containing an amount equal to or greater than 30% of polyglycerin having a degree of polymerization of 5.
[0009]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the nonionic surfactant (b) is in the range of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 30
[0010]
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the ratio of nonionic surfactant (b) to oil (a) is 0.25 to 6, preferably 0.3 to 3, and more preferably from 0.4 to 1.5. 35
[0011]
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the C-glycoside compound (c) is represented by the following formula: XR s (I) wherein: R represents an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, and which may be optionally substituted with at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH, Y or COOR "2, with R" 2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) 41S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide may be substituted by a hydroxyl group necessarily free, and optionally one or more function (s) amine (s) optionally protected (s), and - X represents a chosen radical among the groupeme nts -CO-, -CH (OR ') -, -CH (NH2) -, CHNRbRc; CHNHORd, -C (OR ') -, -C CNRbRc; CNHORd -CH (NHCH2CH2CH2OH) -, -CH (NHPh) - and -CH (CH3) - and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH (OH) - or -CH (NH2) - and more particularly a radical -CH (OH) -, R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear and saturated C1-C18 alkyl radical, * a C2-C18 linear and unsaturated alkyl radical, a branched, saturated or unsaturated C3 alkyl radical; -C18 * a cyclic radical saturated or unsaturated C5 or C6 * a linear or branched acyl radical, saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 18, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C5 or C6. Ra denotes: a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a linear or branched C2-C18 acyl or linear or branched C2-C18 alkenylcarbonyl radical; C18 Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C2-C18 or branched C3-C18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C3-C4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical or a radical -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 in wherein Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT, -SH, -ST, -CO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, H COT COT and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N group - (COT) -, or -S- with T denoting a linear or branched C1-C6 or C3-C6 cyclic alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, or an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; linear or branched C3-C4, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 18 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, said radical being optionally substituted with a phenyl group, the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which may be a or [3, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.
[0012]
12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the compound C-glycoside (c) is represented by the following formula: XR s (I) wherein: R denotes a linear unsubstituted alkyl radical C1 -C4, in particular C1-C2, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) - group.
[0013]
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the C-glycoside compound (c) is C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- propane, and preferably C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
[0014]
Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in which the compound C-glycoside (c) is represented by the following formula (II): ## STR1 ## in which: - the compounds of formula (I) are xylose derivatives - Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups (ORa) - W = -OR '; (= 0); NRbRc; NHORd - R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear and saturated C1-C18 alkyl radical, * a C2-C18 linear and unsaturated alkyl radical, a branched, saturated or unsaturated C3-C18 alkyl radical * a saturated or unsaturated C 5 or C 6 cyclic radical; a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 2 -C 18 or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C 5 or C 6 acyl radical. Ra denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical - a linear or branched C 2 -C 18 or linear or branched alkenylcarbonyl acyl radical When Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle substituted with 2 to 5 (ORa) groups, two adjacent ORa groups may together form a divalent radical -O-CH 2 -O provided that when W = OH, the compound has no ethylenic double bond at the alpha position of the carbon carrying this OH. Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a C2-C18 linear or branched C3-C18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C3-C4 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical or a radical -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 in which Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N ( T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT, -SH, -ST, -CO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, 44 H TOC COT and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N group - (COT) -, or -S- with T denoting a linear or branched C1-C6 or C3-C6 cyclic alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4 or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, or an unsaturated hydrocarbon radical; linear or branched C3-C4, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C 3 -C 18 unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, said radical being optionally substituted with a phenyl group, and that their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their stereoisomers,
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound C-glycoside (c) is of formula (II) in which: the compounds of formula (II) are derivatives of xylose-Y designates a phenyl radical or a heterocycle, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 groups (ORa) - W = -OR '; (= 0); NRbRc; NHORd - R 'denotes: * a hydrogen atom, * a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, * a linear or branched C1-C6 acyl radical. Ra denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical - a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 acyl radical 45When Y denotes a phenyl radical or a heterocycle substituted with 2 or 3 groups (ORa ), two adjacent groups ORa may together form a divalent radical -O-CH2-0 provided that when W = OH, the compound does not contain an ethylenic double bond in the alpha position of the carbon bearing this OH. Rb denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C2-C8 or branched C3-C8 alkyl radical, or a -CH (Zi) -OO2Z2 radical in which Z1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl radical or branched C1-C6, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated C3-C6, said radical being optionally substituted by at least one group selected from = NH, -NH2, -N (T) 2, = 0, -OH, -OT , -SH, -ST, -OO2T, phenyl, phenyl substituted with -OH or -OT, H COT TOC and / or interrupted by a -NH-, -N- (COT) - group, or -S- with T denoting a C1-C6 linear, C5-C6 linear alkyl radical. and Z2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rc denotes: a hydrogen atom; a linear C1-C4, or branched C3-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a group; phenyl. Rd denotes: - a hydrogen atom - a linear C 1 -C 4 or branched C 3 -C 4 alkyl radical, said radical being optionally substituted by a phenyl group, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their stereoisomers,
[0016]
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound C-glycoside (c) is of formula (II) and is chosen from: Compound 1. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2- [2-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-tri OH (1) OMe Compound 2. 4- (4-Hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl] butan-2-one OH OMe HO (2) Compound 3. (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (4-hydroxy-phenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol HO 's OH OH (3) ) Compound 4 4- (4-hydroxy-phenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl] butan-2-one HO (4) Compound 5. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2- [2- (Benzylamino) -4- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol, 47H (5) OMe Compound 6. ethyl {[3- (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) -1 - {[(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl] methyl} propyl] amino} (phenyl) acetate OH (6) OMe Compound 7. (3E) -4-phenyl-1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3,4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyran-2-yl] ] (3E) -4- (4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxyphenyl) -1 - [(3R, 4S, 5R) -3, 4,5-trihydroxytetrahydro-2H-pyra n-2-yl] but-3-en-2-one HO (8) 48Compound 9. (3R, 4 S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyphenyl) butynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol Compound 10: (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (3-hydroxy) 4-m ethoxyphenyl) butyl] tetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol HO "OMe (10) OH Compound 11. (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (2,4 -di-hydroxy-phenyl) butynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol HO Compound 12. (3R, 4S, 5R) -242-hydroxy-4- (3-ethoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl) butyntetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-trio OH OH OH OH (12) Compound 13. 5,9-anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-1-pyridin-3-yl-D-xyl -nonitol HO (13) Compound 14. (3R, 4S, 5R) -2 - [(2E) -2- (methoxyimino) -4-phenylbutynetrahydro-2H-pyran-3,4,5-triol HO "OH (14) Compound 15.5,9-anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-7-O-pentanoyl-1-phenyl-D-xylo-non-3-ulose O (15) 50 30152 4 6 Compound 16. 5,9-anhydro-1,2,4-trideoxy-1- (3,4,5-trimethoxyphenyl) -D-xylo-nonitol OH 517. 18. 10 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. ( 16) Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound C-glycoside (c) is of formula (II) and is selected from compounds (1) and (11). Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the amount of the C-glycoside compound (c) is in the range of 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, further comprising at least one nonionic surfactant other than (b) above and / or at least one ionic surfactant. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, further comprising at least one polyol. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of an HIE emulsion, and the oil (a) is in the form of droplets having a mean particle size in number of 300 nm or less, preferably from 10 nm to 150 nm. Non-therapeutic method for treating the skin, the hair, the mucous membranes, the nails, the eyelashes, the eyelids and / or the scalp, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21 is applied to skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyelids or scalp. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, as or in skincare products and / or detergents and / or makeup products and / or makeup remover for the skin of the body and / or the face and / or the mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyelids. 51

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法律状态:
2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1363528A|FR3015246B1|2013-12-24|2013-12-24|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OIL, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPOUND|FR1363528A| FR3015246B1|2013-12-24|2013-12-24|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OIL, A NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND A C-GLYCOSIDE COMPOUND|

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ES14824431T| ES2746006T3|2013-12-24|2014-12-17|Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, a nonionic surfactant and a C-glucoside compound|

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JP2016532554A| JP6728044B2|2013-12-24|2014-12-17|Cosmetic composition containing oil, nonionic surfactant, and C-glycoside compound|

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US15/107,642| US20160317416A1|2013-12-24|2014-12-17|Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, a nonionic surfactant and a c-glycoside compound|

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EP14824431.2A| EP3086763B1|2013-12-24|2014-12-17|Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, a nonionic surfactant and a c-glycoside compound|

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PCT/EP2014/078160| WO2015097029A1|2013-12-24|2014-12-17|Cosmetic composition comprising an oil, a nonionic surfactant and a c-glycoside compound|